Finger Lakes, NY by Car

 I asked to use the bathroom and as I entered the nice clean facility, I heard her yell out the door, “Turn the water on! We have customers!” So I was not too surprised when I squirted the soap on my hands and there was no water to rinse it off. When I came out she apologized but I told her that was fine. I had wipes in the car. As we left we saw her husband coming up to his childhood home from the fields and the children going about their daily chores. They run a large farm along with starting their own winery. They were new to the “trail” and I’m sure they will do fine. She also directed us to another winery close by so we were officially on the Keuka Lake Wine Trail.

The Hunt Country Vineyards was not difficult to find on Rt 32 right off 54A in Branchport, which is at the tip of Keuka Lake. This was a fancy place compared to our first winery. The gift shop was awesome. John eyed a “wine bottle puzzle” as we walked around. We did the tasting which (I think) was $5.00 for 4. We chose to split the tasting. I did the whites; he did the reds. We were not really impressed besides they were a little pricey. We did go back to the gift area and John purchased his wine bottle puzzle. It sure is a neat little thing. It is the size of a regular wine bottle and it comes apart a certain way. Of course then you have to put it back together. I’ll let him play with that. We left there and got back on 54A around noon.

Now we got side tracked by another little sign that read “pottery”. Well, let’s give that a shot. Again we are driving down or should I say up a country road seemingly to no where. We lost the sign. We decided to turn around — we had passed the place where I thought we should go a little further — and as we turned into a little driveway of a very little old house, a car stopped behind us. Wouldn’t you know it, of all the places in the immense countryside — with no other traffic, we pulled into THEIR driveway. Anyway we pulled in and then out onto the street, motioned that we were sorry, they smiled, then we took off to continue looking for the pottery place.

We went onto roads that had just been paved and some with loose gravel — not fun. Anyway, we happen to see the sign again so we turn around and went down another little country road and there was this little house off on the left sitting back from the road. In the tree filled back yard is clothes hanging on the line and a large, rather run down garage like structure. There was a sign in the front yard that read,”Pottery”, so John pulled in. I said, “this can’t be right!” But then I glanced inside of the one section of the barn and there was pottery on display. Havill Pottery, 8921 Coryell Road, Branchport NY (607) 868-3151.

We got out and walked up to the door at the same time the lady walked out of her house greeting us at the display room door. She let us in and as I looked around. I thought, “I’m buying something here — I don’t care what. I have to have something that they made!” Very nice, quality pieces every one of them. I decided on a hanging pot which was one of the cheaper pieces ($29). But I was very happy to get it. She did not take credit cards so I had to dip into my cash but I didn’t hesitate. I asked her if she had any pieces being sold locally. She said several wineries had some of her pieces for sale. She gave me paper magazine Summertime 2010 published by the Chronicle-Express which contained an article written about her and her husband’s business. I left there very happy at 12:40pm!

Now let’s get back to the wineries! Back onto 54A we saw a beautiful winery up on a hill and it was calling to us. So we turned down the long drive off County Road 76, Hammondsport, NY to Heron Hill Winery.

Tasting here was $2 for 4 tasting. We enjoyed all of them. I also happened to notice one of several pots on the tasting bar. It looked familiar. I picked it up to check the bottom for a signature and sure enough it was from Havill Pottery. I didn’t realize at the time but they used the pots for people to dump wine into if they don’t like it. Not a good move on my part. Whatever – I was impressed.

We both liked the one white wine on special (of course, cost does enter into your choice — at least it does for us). So we purchased a bottle of Eclipse White. They uncorked it for us and gave us two glasses so we could sit outside in the gazebo and enjoy “life”.

As we walked through their gift shop to the patio we noticed several more pieces of Havill Pottery on sale. I said “yes, I have one of those pieces!!”

Now for the good part. We got a great table under a very high gazebo type roof. It was in the corner so John could be in the shade and I could enjoy the sun. He poured us each a glass then he went to the car to get our cooler of fruit, cheese and crackers. I’m not sure if they really approved of this practice but since we had purchased a bottle from them they sort of looked the other way. This was our lunch and it was fantastic. Cheese, crackers, fruit and great wine along with a fantastic view of the Keuka Lake. It doesn’t get much better that this!

At 2:30pm we left our Heron Hill respite and on to Hammondsport. We had heard so much about it we felt we had to check it out. Passing several other wineries we headed to our desired destination. We arrived in the steaming metropolis of Hammondsport at 2:45 and parked by the post office — free. Walked around the little quaint town and stopped in a few shops. That was it! Back to the car and out of the town at 3:06.

We stopped at Ravines, tasted buy did not buy. Didn’t strike our fancy. The gentleman behind the bar commented on John’s t-shirt. It had a picture of Einstein holding a glass of wine with the saying: Albert Wine-Stein — Drink a Few Glasses and become a Genius.

Onward to Barrington Cellars, 2794 Gray Road off Rt 54. This was out of the way also but very worth it. Arrived at 4:01. No charge for tasting and we liked the wine. We bought a case:1/2 white and1/2 red. Now we were both happy. They do give you deals if you buy a case. We left there at 4:20 and realized we were hungry for real food.

One thing I must mention again: EVERYTHING CLOSES AT 5:00 PM.

We had seen signs for The Switzerland Inn so that was our goal, to find this little place. We had to back track a bit toward Hammondsport but we were on a mission. I don’t know how John found the street but all of a sudden there it was. At 4:31 we were at 14109 Keuka Village Rd, Hammondsport, NY — located off the main street and right on the edge of the water. I asked people who were coming out of the restaurant if it was any good. They said, “it was fine. We’ve been here before.” Well that was good enough for us plus we were hungry. We walked in and were seated on the outside balcony overlooking the boat docks. It was neat plus we were the only customers they had. We ordered our usual water — needed hydration and a large salad. We enjoyed sitting there watching the boats and the calm lake water. The food was fine — nothing spectacular. I think they specialize in the drinking crowd that patronizes the place on week-ends. We were just there for sustenance.

As we left the restaurant at 5:25 we noticed the sky was turning an ugly dark grey color. We also heard thunder in the distance. We decided we had better head for our “home away from home” Glen Motor Inn. John wanted to try a different way back to Watkins Glen from Hammondsport. We drove south on 54 looking for SR23 which we had seen the day we arrived. We went way to far south and turned around to ask a gentleman for directions. Well, he didn’t know any more than we did. He discouraged us from taking SR 23 if he even knew what or where it was.

John had an itch and he had to scratch it. So we were going to find SR 23. He decided we would take SR 87 east and possibly it would turn into SR 23. He was absolutely correct. After a few turns 87 turned to 96 to114 then after a few turns, wala, SR 23. It was at this intersection in Tyrone, NY that we saw a little deer standing on the right side of the road. It was so relaxed, nibbling on the green stuff. I said “ohhh, I should have taken a picture.” John asked if I wanted him to turn around so I could but I said “no” that was ok. Onward onto Rt23.

Alas, we saw a sign directing us to the Castel Grisch. The name was intriguing so we made a sharp left and went in search of the now “closed for the day” winery. Just to check it out to see if the location warranted a return visit. It was a very neat location, with a great view. We would try to return when they were open. He turned around and headed back toward the motel, trying to beat the pending storm indicated by the dark, ominous clouds.

After another quick jog in the road we went down a hill and saw that we were in Watkins Glen via RT 409. When did that happen? We knew where we were now. We turned left onto Rt 14 and outside of town one mile we were at our hotel at 6:35pm.

We sat on our balcony and finished the bottle of wine we had opened at Heron Hill Winery. “NO, we did not drink the entire bottle at the winery!” The rains never came. We visited with our neighbors and they told us we had to go the Watkins Glen State Park. It is a MUST. The problem was, to see the falls and gorge; you have to walk up 800 steps which may be slippery in sections. We were concerned about John’s knees since he just had both of them replaced in Feb. 2010. They said there was a shuttle bus that can take you either up or down, depending which way you want to walk. John wasn’t too sure he wanted to attempt the walk. I said it was entirely up to him. He could think about it.

They had also been at Corning, NY today which was where we were planning to go tomorrow morning. They said it was a great tour and we couldn’t miss the building going south on Rt 414. That information made me feel better. I always hate to go somewhere new.

We were ready to retire. We had a big day and another tomorrow. Our plan was Corning, NY in the morning and the Seneca Lake wineries in the afternoon. Still “iffy” about the state park gorge.

Wednesday: 7/14/10 At 7:30 we were ready for the day to begin with our continental breakfast. After we ate we went back to our room to collect the remains of our cheese/crackers and fruit in our handy, dandy cooler. There were no refrigerators in the room so we had to keep filling the cooler with ice but it worked out fine.

We left for Corning at 8:25 and arrived at the Welcome Center at 9:05. The woman behind the desk informed us we could walk to the glass museum or wait for the next shuttle arriving in 15 minutes. We chose to walk to the Glass Works building which was just a short walk. We couldn’t see waiting for the shuttle especially since the museum just opened at 9:00 and we would be one of the first guests for the day. It was a cloudy day, threatening rain.

We paid our admission fee which was $11.90 for seniors – $23.80 total. That was just for the tour. It did not include blowing your own glassworks. The gentleman did not encourage us to do that. He said it would take several days for the glass to be ready to take home, etc. So we took his advice. It was now 9:15 and our tour was 10:00 so we had time to check out the gift shop area downstairs. It was immense. It consisted of regular glass corning ware for the kitchen — everything. Then the other side had all the colored glass of all colors and shapes. They even had glass jewelry.

We were very impressed by a beautiful multi-colored glass ball (a little larger than a bowling ball) which was on display and for sale if you wanted to pay $44,000.00. A video was playing of the day the “ball” was created. It was narrated by the glass maker and showed him and his team making the ball. There were several unexpected events that could have jeopardized the entire process. It was remarkable.

I wanted to buy a few things as gifts but every time I saw something affordable there was a little sticker “made in China”. I wanted something local. So I continued my search until time for the tour.

At 10:00am we met our tour guide who was very informative and knowledgeable about the history of the Corning Museum of Glass as well as the Glass Works Institution. We walked a short way outside to another building where the glass making took place along with classes, etc. We viewed many demonstrations and marveled at the talent of the many students who were actually taking classes as we toured the building. It was Wednesday which was the special day of the week for children. Many children’s classes were going on also.

We walked by a glass enclosed room and saw a man teaching several students how to create a mold out of plaster to be used for future glass creations. In another glass enclosed area we saw a female glass maker (with balloons on her head — don’t know why) who was creating a frog out of glass. It was no where near done when we were watching. It started with an actual blob of glass that was placed on the end of a very long rod that is inserted into a very hot oven or kiln. When the rod is removed by her helper he places it across a metal frame which allows the end with the hot glass to be at her right side where she shapes it with her tools. The rod is being rotated constantly while she does her magic. It is then put back into the kiln where the same procedure is repeated over and over until the final product is done. It takes time and patience to achieve perfection which is what they strive for.

When we were done we returned to the main building and were taken to the actual museum where antique and new glass of all shapes, styles and sizes were on display. It was beautiful. These were not for sale; they were part of the museum.

We then went back down to the shopping area where I found several items that were made in nearby PA (close enough to NY and far enough away from China) that were perfect for my gifts. I also bought a few functional corning ware pieces for me. We checked out, exited the building and walked back to our car.

John was hungry by now and wanting to eat somewhere. He suggested we just drive to Watkins Glen and eat there since we sort of knew the place. So we left Corning at 11:30 and headed north to Watkins Glen via Rt 414. I had information from the tour guide book about a restaurant called Savards Family Restaurant, so that was our destination. We arrived in town around 11:55 and parked only to find out that we had driven past our destination, So, we just walked a few more blocks. This restaurant is a blue, one story building where, it seems, the locals eat, like a mom and pop place. Everyone seemed to know everyone. We got a sandwich and salad. It was adequate.

We were on the road again at 1:00pm hoping to do the Seneca Lake wine trail. We were told it took 40 minutes to drive the west side of the lake and 45 minutes to drive the east side of the lade. We went north on Rt14 which is on the west side of the lake and to our first stop, the Lakewood Vineyard. It was another one that did not charge for tasting. More cherry wood topped bars — very nice. The guy behind the bar was very interesting with his tales about the wine making business, etc. but he also had very distinguished ears! Yes, ears. Normally when a person gets their ears pierced they have small hole punched into their lobe into which they place the stem of an earring. This guy had a hole in each ear the size of a ‘DIME” with a large similar sized round piece of metal also with a hole in it pressed into the opening of his ear. When I talked to him I had to force myself not to look at his ears. He was definitely unique.

During our conversation I happened to mention that I liked vodka. He jumped right on that and said we should check out the new distillery in town which was just across the lake. He said don’t bother to go anywhere else just turn around and go there. We thanked him for his advice and promised we would act upon it — which we intended to do, just not post-haste as he suggested. He certainly knew his wine. We bought several bottles of wine from “ears”, I mean, him. On the road at 1:53pm

Now it is 2:00pm and we are at Glenora Winery. We didn’t even taste. The place was very fancy with $5.00 tours of the winery. It was unique though. It had wine bottles stuck on the end of tree limbs forming the shape of a Christmas tree.

I felt sorry for John doing all the driving so I insisted that I drive for the rest of the day. He was elated. My job was to drive “around” Seneca Lake and end up at the Distillery before they closed at 5:00. So I had to make it before 4:30 to give us enough time. That was my “assignment” and I chose to “accept it”! It was now 2:10 and I am driving North on Rt 14 heading toward Geneva.

Finally made it to Geneva and checked out the Ramada Inn in town. Very nice. Right on the end of the lake. That would be another one to consider when we return.

We made it around the lake and to the Finger Lakes Distilling by 3:30pm. It was really neat. The vodka and whiskey tastings were $2.00 for three tastes. Then if you purchased a bottle the $2 went toward the purchase price. I did two vodkas and one liqueur. He would fill a ½ shot glass. I would take a “sip” which was strong — then he would pour in a mix with the vodka. The first one I chose to mix with tonic the second I chose pomegranate juice; It was really good. That is the bottle I purchased. My third was the Cherry Liqueur. It tasted like cherry pie filling. Then he put one drop of chocolate “bitters” (not sure) and it tasted like a chocolate/cherry pie. I considered buying the liqueur but I knew I would drink it too willingly so I stuck with the vodka.

John did whiskey — rye and corn and then a maplejack liqueur. He drank his straight. He purchased the “corn” whiskey.

One of the laws to open a distillery is you have to use an ingredient indigenous to the region. So their vodka was made from local grapes which added flavor to the vodka. The whiskey of course had rye or corn as an additive. I don’t pretend to be an authority on the subject I am just relaying what I remember be it right or wrong.

Our next mission was to go back to Castel Grisch before 5:00. To do so we had to retrace our steps from last night when we were meandering around county roads. After several lucky turns from 14 to 23 to 28, we found it, arriving at 4:45pm — lots of time to spare.

There were several people tasting at the time we entered and they seemed to be having a good time. The deal at this winery was — “buy two get one free”. There was a bit of a dispute between the customer and server They wanted to buy two cases and get one case free. It turned out they could indeed do this but they lost the “case discount”. It still sounded like a good deal.

We tasted a few and John asked me if I wanted to buy two and get one free. I declined and he was confused. I never turn down a good deal. I said, “I didn’t like any of the wines.” Well, ok then. As we left we talked to another couple who highly recommended the Cascata winery just up the road. We appreciated their suggestion but it was after the bewitching hour of 5:00 (5:18) so wine tasting was done for the day and we were leaving tomorrow morning. Just another reason to return in the future. The same couple was also very enthusiastic about the Watkins Glen State Park Gorge Trail. Said it was a “must do”.

Since it was still early and we were not starving, we decided to do a “park drive by” and possibly do it this evening. We drove through town and found it on the right side of the road — can’t miss it. There is a very large sign! We talked to the guy at the check in booth and he recommended we return tomorrow because the shuttle bus stopped running at 6pm and we would never make it up in time to get it. So we took his advice and left. The view of the falls at the entrance was very picturesque. It left you wanting much more especially since we knew the park held many other falls.

Back at the hotel: Since it was such a nice evening we put on our bathing suits and took our snacks to the pool. The pool is gated with a metal structure. I entered first then John came through and inadvertently slammed the gate shut. Then I heard him yell, “RUN MARGIE, RUN!” I turned around and saw him jumping up and down like he was on fire. He yelled again “wasps, RUN!” I looked up and there were several wasps swarming around our heads. I swatted the few away and then sat down. John came over — a bit shaken up — and sat down. He said when he shut the gate the noise must have disturbed their nest in the gate post and out they came. We saw them go back into their nest, hopefully never to exit again while we were there. He was bitten twice, one on the arm and one on the leg. The area started to redden and swell so we put ice on it. I told him that he should report it so he went to the office. Upon his return he said they thought they had it under control. So they were aware that they had and now still have a wasp problem. But John said when they kill the adults the babies are not killed. Then they hatch and you more wasps.

With that ordeal sort of on the back burner we tried to relax with our beverage of choice and snacks (this was our supper). We were looking down the hill and out onto the lake with sail boats. It was so calm and peaceful. Then out of the woods to our right came this doe walking across the large yard. I saw it and told John, “There’s a deer!” He stood up and looked. Then we realized there were other people at the pool along with a little boy so John yelled, “There’s a DEER!” So everyone went to the edge and watched the doe approach the trees on the left then turn around and run back where she came from. It was so neat. I was able to get three pictures of the beautiful animal.

We went back to our room and made our plans for the next day, deciding to do the State Park first thing in the morning then head for home. Thursday: 7/15/10 We were both up at 6:30. The sun was up and it looked like it was going to be a hot, sunny day. After we ate we checked out and were on our way to our gorge trip.

We were one of the first at the park. In fact, at 8:05 there wasn’t anyone at the entrance booth to collect the $8 for parking. We were informed last night that if we arrived early they would place a ticket on our car and we could pay the $8 when we left. That was fine with us. We like getting an early start.

We parked near the entrance of the gorge which was a flight of steps and a tunnel with falls to the left. We started with pictures of this not realizing the wonders that awaited us ahead. At 8:05 we began our hour and half walk the 800+ steps up the gorge trail. There were several trails to pick from but we wanted to follow the water. Our plan was to walk up and get the shuttle bus back down.

Words cannot really express the beauty that we experienced along our walk. A gentleman was behind us with a professional camera on a tripod. He made the comment, “This is a hidden treasure!” That about summed it up. The steps were wet at some areas and you walked under falls, in little tunnels and up many steps. At times we just stopped and enjoyed the view. John did well with his knees, stopping many times along the way to have a seat and just observe.

As we neared the end there was a set of very steep steps which we took very slowly. An elderly couple was just descending the steps. I say elderly, but they were probably our age. Anyway — she had a four legged cane and was having difficulty maneuvering the stairway. I said to them (I am always talking to people we encounter — I have the delusion that they care what I have to say!!) that it was much easier on the knees to come up the stairs than walking down. A lot of impact on the knees when going down steps. He said he had a bad heart so going up would be much more difficult for him. We looked back and witnessed the struggle she had placing her cane on each step to allow her to safely step down. Now there is a couple that probably should not have been doing this. But you have to give them credit for trying. I sure hope they made it ok.

It is now 9:40 and we have completed our hike up the gorge and what a wonderful experience it was. The shuttle bus was already there waiting for us. John paid the $3/pp and we hopped on and rode to the bottom.

We were back in our car and out of the park at 10:05. At 10:39 we were heading west on Rt86 toward home. Our short cut worked out fine!

Another great trip! We want to go back and do more wineries!! So much wine and so little time!!