European Vacations

What It's Really Like to Visit a German Christmas Market


Kate Sitarz
Kate Sitarz
Adobe Stock | EKH-Pictures

Additional Reporting by Megan Johnson

Nearly everywhere you visit in Germany, beginning in late November, will bring you to a Christmas Market, often called a Weihnachtsmarkt or Christkindlmarkt. They're characterized by a few telltale signs: clusters of small wooden huts and aromas of roasting chestnuts, grilled sausages, and spiced wine (or gluhwein).

Germany's markets, which date back to the Middle Ages, vary according to many factors: geography, location, time of day, and day of week. But they share a few commonalities, too: handmade toys, nutcrackers and smokers, local delicacies, and groups of friends and strangers huddled around tables with steaming mugs wrapped in their hands. As with any festival in Germany, you'll pay a pfand (deposit) for the cup, stemware, or mug your drink comes in. You can get your money by returning the empty cup (or keep it as a cheap souvenir).

Most markets begin the weekend before the first Sunday of Advent. But places like Oberwesel—a small town on the Rhine—hold a market solely on the first weekend of Advent. And don't make the same rookie mistake I did: The fifth Sunday before Christmas is Totensonntag, a German holiday. Even though Sundays in Germany are notoriously quiet—nearly everything is shut down—Christmas markets are usually the exception to this rule. I learned the hard way that some markets, like the one in Koblenz, shut down on Totensonntag.

While some markets are sizable enough that you could spend an entire day browsing (and re-browsing) booths, usually a few hours of exploration will suffice. To avoid crowds, consider visiting during the week and arriving early (but not too early), especially on Sundays, as many booths tend to get a slow start. Of course, when you avoid crowds, you also miss out on a certain holiday cheer that only comes from (unintentionally) bouncing off of your neighbors' puffy jackets.

Here are some of the best Christmas markets in Germany.

  • Cologne

  • Adobe Stock | Mikhail Markovskiy

    Köln, or Cologne, has a handful of markets spread out across the city—so much so that there's even a hop-on-hop-off tram that takes you to them all. However, given that the city has an easy-to-navigate U-bahn system and walkable streets, walking is a viable option.

    The aisles between the booths of all markets feel closer together than in any other city, particularly by the Kölner Dom. The gnome-themed Old Market, the city's largest, was the least claustrophobia-inducing. The mugs for warm drinks each feature one of over half a dozen gnomes; legend has it that Heinzelmannchen (house gnomes) performed various jobs for citizens of Cologne.

    Best For: Ice-skating. The Old Town Christmas market features a sizeable rink that circles the area's horse-and-rider monument, has a long straightaway under a pedestrian bridge, and features areas for Bavarian curling.

    Must-Buy: Kölsch. This light lager—generally served in a small 200ml glass—is brewed in Cologne and offers a nice break from mugs of gluhwein.

  • Frankfurt

  • One of the country’s oldest markets—dating back to the late 1300s—is situated in its Altstadt or Old Town, the one area of the city that doesn't have a backdrop entirely of modern skyscrapers. The modest size makes big crowds manageable.

    Best For: Completing holiday shopping. Its proximity to Zeil, a highly commercialized area made for shopping, means that if you can't find all your gifts at the market, you'll likely find them nearby.

    Must-Buy: Bethmännchen. This cookie, with marzipan and almonds, is a city special.

  • Mainz

  • Adobe Stock | Mor65_Mauro Piccardi

    With more of a college-town vibe than its neighbor Wiesbaden, Mainz generally takes a more "party" attitude when it comes to events. The market ends right at the Gutenberg Museum, offering up the perfect excuse for a sausage both before and after a visit. (Note the location for the 2025 Christmas Market does not end at the Gutenberg Museum, as it is undergoing renovations, so the market’s location has moved from Liebfrauenplatz to Fischtorplatz.)

    Best For: Socializing. If you can make plans in advance, reserve a wine barrel. Just over a dozen partially heated barrels (cozily seating about six people) surround a communal bonfire, making it possibly the warmest place out of any market to enjoy food, drink, and conversation with friends.

    Must-Buy: Kartoffelpuffer. Not unique to Mainz, but the potato pancakes here were some of the best, with one booth offering several topping options besides the traditional applesauce.

  • Wiesbaden

  • Adobe Stock | EKH-Pictures

    True to its reputation as a former spa town with places to "see and be seen," Wiesbaden's Christmas Market feels a bit more upscale. Several booths are small mobile shops you can enter and walk around.

    Best For: Performances and activities. Every market has its own list of events, but Wiesbaden seems to always have something going on, including baking classes for children, daily organ concerts, dance groups, magicians, and even meditation.

    Must-Buy: Dornfelder Glühwein. The German grape varietal makes mulled wine even more outstanding.

  • Rudesheim Am Rhein

  • Opening night in Rüdesheim proved that weekdays are the best time to visit the markets. The otherwise super crowded (and touristy) town had a manageable crowd of locals out to see a singer from the area performing (mostly) English-language holiday songs. Away from the center square, speakers provided festive music. Booths throughout the market represented areas around the world.

    Best For: Local shopping. The shops that line the town's cobblestoned streets stayed open—rare in a place where most things are shuttered no later than 5:00.

    Must-Buy: Rudesheim Coffee. Made with locally distilled Asbach Uralt brandy, this drink features two sugar cubes lit on fire for a subtle smoky flavor, accompanied by coffee, whipped cream, and chocolate shavings on top. It is a decadent treat best reserved for daytime hours. Also available in a passion fruit version.

  • Munchen

  • Adobe Stock | fottoo

    Though Munchen (Munich) is better known for another festival a few months prior, the city still draws crowds for its holiday markets. Every night, people gather for the live choral group perched on the Rathaus or Town Hall balcony, making the Christmas Market on the Marionplatz—the city's oldest—also one of the most crowded. The market within the Kaiserhof of the Residenz, a former royal palace in the city center, is a slightly more manageable one, while the Festive Middle Age market brings a medieval feel with many merchants dressing the part.

    Best For: Big-city variety. The city has innumerable other markets across its streets (and even one at the airport).

    Must buy: Nativity set pieces. Munich’s Kripperlmarkt (at St. Peter’s Church near Marienplatz) specializes in all the makings of a manger scene. Assemble your own manger, the perfect keepsake for your Christmas market visit. Even if you aren’t religious, you can appreciate the artistry that comes from creating each piece.

  • Nurnberg

  • Perhaps Germany's most highly touted town for Christmas festivities, Nurnberg delivers with its sheer size.

    The number of stalls makes this a destination you can spend a full day exploring—alongside hordes of tourists. You'll hear a lot of English spoken here. The Market of Sister Cities section features booths representing various countries. The Scotland booth, for example, has sold hot toddies made with a healthy pour of Laphroaig whiskey.

    Best For: Kids. The Kinderweihnachtmarkt—in its own separate area—is a kid's dream, featuring a small train and a merry-go-round. While most markets cater to the kid in all of us, Nuremberg caters to the actual toddler set.

    Must-Buy: Nurnberger Rostbratwurste. Tiny (delicious) sausages—multiple included in an order—served with sauerkraut. Also try the Nurnberg Lebkuchen—the city's particular brand of high-quality gingerbread.

  • Michelstadt

  • Adobe Stock | FrankfurterBubb

    At a true German Christmas Market, you are more likely to be around Germans than tourists while you’re here. Unlike other markets that are open every day, Michelstadt is open Wednesday through Sunday. It's worth waiting until the middle of the week to visit. The city's half-timbered houses and maze of cobblestoned alleys make an idyllic backdrop for the holidays. Booths wind their way throughout the town, providing ample space for traffic flow. A slew of larger-than-life wooden figurines, some mechanical, depict various holiday scenes.

    Best For: An authentic Christmas market experience.

    Must-Buy: Anything from the area craftspeople. Woodworkers, glassblowers, bakers, and more set up demonstration workshops.

  • Berlin

  • Berlin hosts about eighty Christmas markets every year, with WeihnachtsZauber at Gendarmenmarkt its flagship market. It’s not small; it hosts about 600,000 people every year. Its expansiveness means there is a wide variety of food, goods, and entertainment.

    Variety is the key to each Berlin market: the Rotes Rathaus (Red Town Hall) market has a ferris wheel and ice skating rink around the Neptune Fountain, while the LGBTQ+ friendly Weihnachtsmarkt at Nollendorfplatz brings pink trees and drag queen performances.

    Best For: Variety. Berlin truly has a market for everyone.

    Must-by: Pflaumentoffel – little chimney-sweep figures made of prunes.

  • Tips for Attending Christmas Markets in Germany

  • Cost
    Most are free to enter, but everything within the market will cost money- the food, any gifts you buy, drinks, and even some entertainment.

    Bring Cash
    While more and more vendors accept credit cards, it’s always a good idea to have cash on you for the ones that don’t.

    Dates Vary
    While the end of November through Christmas Eve is the norm for most markets, be sure to check the exact dates and days the market is open before going.